Gaillard, Lucien (1861-1933)

Gaillard, a French goldsmith and jeweller, is well known for his Art Nouveau jewellery with Japanese motifs and formed/machined metal surfaces.

 

Amédée Gaillard founds a company in 1840 that specialises in gold-plated copper jewellery. In 1860, son Ernest takes over the company and begins to produce silver jewellery. In 1869 he begins working with the niello technique, which originates from Russian, German and Austrian folklore jewellery. He makes his first attempts at inlaid work in a Japanese style. Lucien joins the company as an apprentice in 1878, working intensively with Japanese metalworking techniques. At the World Expo in Paris in 1889, Ernest receives a gold medal for his innovative engraving techniques and is admitted into the Legion of Honour. Lucien takes over the company in 1892. His pieces are influenced strongly by Japanese artworks and techniques. He experiments with enamel, niello and patina techniques. He is awarded the Grand Prix for jewellery and jewels in 1900. A new source of inspiration for him is the jewellery of René Lalique. Among his highly expressive Art Nouveau pieces are insects, flowers and trees. He employs Japanese craftspeople in his workshop. The characteristic pieces, designed together with the Parisian goldsmiths, impress with their organic materials, such as horn, lacquer and ivory.  Gold and silver are patinated and adorned with enamel and engravings. Around 1904 Gaillard also crafts objects such as vases, walking sticks and hair combs. Beginning in 1910 Gaillard expands his production to include glass. Among other objects, he designs perfume bottles. Lucien dies in 1933.