Brandt, Paul-Emile (1883 – 1952)

The Swiss jewellery artist Paul Brandt is known for his geometric Art Déco pieces with diagonal stripes or zigzags in white gold and platinum.

 

Brandt studies jewellery design, painting, sculpture, engraving and enamelling in Paris with Chaplain and Allard. From 1906 to 1911 he goes out on his own to create pieces in the Art Nouveau style. Immediately following the first exhibition in 1906, which displays works heavily influenced by the Jugendstil style, the Musée des Artes Décoratifs in Paris acquires several pieces. In 1921 Brandt experiments with engraved stones. He participates in the World Expo in 1925, presenting modest pieces of Art Déco jewellery in circular, square, and triangular forms. For the geometrically clear forms, he uses brilliants, stepped radial settings, calibrated sapphires, enamel and lacquer. He personally creates numerous lacquered cigarette cases with circular decoration. In 1927, Brandt commissions the architect Eric Bagge to design his window dressings, in order to present his jewels in the most impressive manner. Like Jean Després and Raymond Templier, Brandt experiments with light and surface effects, such as with lapis lazuli, lacquers, rock crystal, and diamonds. He uses round pearls as a contrast to standard lapis forms. In 1930 and 1931, he creates rings, pendants, and bracelets with geometric forms and combines them with reliefs. He prefers to design monochromatic jewellery in white gold and platinum; diamonds stand in contrast to onyx or black enamel. His final exhibition in the Salon is in 1936. Brandt dies in Paris in 1952.